The front door 6x9s are different than the rear door 6x9s. Note: If someone can prove me wrong, I would be grateful if you could post about it. The Kicker 43CWRT672 can handle up to 75W RMS per coil Power to Subwoofer Coil 2: 2 Ohm, 65W RMS. Power to Subwoofer Coil 1: 2 Ohm, 65W RMS. Weak! Most 6x9in speakers can handle up to 75-150W RMS Power to Rear Door Speakers (with main speaker and tweeter wired in parallel): 2 Ohm, 10W RMS each. This similar to what an aftermarket head unit would output Power to Front Door Speakers: 2 Ohm, 46W RMS each. Weak! Most aftermarket 3.5in speakers can handle up to 30-75W RMS
Power to Front Corner Dash Speakers: 4 Ohms, 5.5W RMS each. I then measured the nominal output from the amp the amp socket connector for each speaker output. Then, with the speakers disconnected, I cranked the head unit to max (Volume=38). balance/fade was centered and the bass/treble/mid crossovers were set at 0. I measured the factory amplifier output 0dbs.i.e. Great questions! Here is my opinion: I turned on the car (14.4V to amp). "Is the amp to blame for the lack of power to some of the speakers? Can it be easily replaced to fix the problem? I'm curious before I return the JBL 963s." - tburns517 and be easily swappable back to the stock configuration if needed.
#RMS OUTPUT FACTORY HEAD UNIT INSTALL#
The fun factor of this install is that there will be no splicing or cutting into the factory wires. I will post the install of the amps in a month or so, but here is the written preview of the layout:ġ) Steal the post-amp output from all eight channels factory amp female socket connector) into two Metra AX-MLOC745 Line-Out Converters (LOC)Ģ) The LOCs will feed the signal to the two Kappa4 amps.ģ) Feed the Kappa4 signal/power outputs to the speakers factory wire harness male connector) For sure I will be replacing that hot-garbage of a stock subwoofer for a Kicker 6.75in, 2Ohm per coil, 75RMS per coil, 43CWRT672. If not, then I will invest in new speakers. Hopefully, the stock dash and door speakers can handle it. I just need to bump up the overall volume of the factory system by about 15%. Right now, I have two, 4-channel Infinity Kappa4 amps lying around that I will be installing. Rear Door Speakers (with main speaker and tweeter wired in parallel): 2 Ohm, 10W RMS each Power Being Pushed By Amplifier (maybe not perfect, but it's in the ballpark):įront Corner Dash Speakers: 4 Ohms, 5.5W RMS each I spent the next 5 hours purely taking measurements of ohms and amperage. I tore the left rear panel apart to get to the amplifier. Armed with my tools, a multimeter, 1k and 50Hz test tracks, calipers, and some so-so information I found on the internet, I embarked on my mission to find out what make this audio system tick. Therefore, I decided to figure out what is the root of this "506" watts of power that is touted in the dealership brochure.
I think we all know that the sound is a little lacking. I have a 2016 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk with Beats audio.
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